Surfing Poem by Dean du Preez

Surfing



Surfing is amazing....
I enjoy watching the other surfers from the beach...
I enjoy watching them ride waves as im paddling out again...
Always good to see your mates in a barrel....
Surfing has exploded in the last decade with Slater opening unimaginable doors for the new school to exploit....
Where is surfing now? ? Right where it is meant to be....
Always changing and evolving, it is becoming better.
Its limits are endless and creativity is ever present toward the change...
Where would i be without surfing.....nowhere! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! !
Its only wave riding.......But difficult to explain the stoke that is life changing...
The sun, the beach, the ocean....it is MY life and i am happy.
I cant sleep at night when ive had good waves all weekend...They just keep replaying in my mind over and over.
I surf well...I know how to surf....Cant do everything but can do more than enough backhand and forehand.
Tubes are never boring to do and to see others do..
Surfing is my life.
I dont need much else...
I need more good waves....
Im stoked!
I need to go surfing to make my day.
Duckdiving is my babtism of renewal and always refreshing.
Iv'e seen all kinds of surfing and its never enough.
Big waves are the best.....like mountains moving..
Massive waves breaking in front of you......thats survival! ! ! ! ha ha scary shi....T
Surfing with dolphins is amazing...
I need to go surf NOW!
The waves were good this morning and im going back to the beach...
Im going to stay out of trouble and surf forever! Well ill just surf forever cos i cant stay out of trouble! ! ! ! ! ! ! !

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